The Lion Hotel, Buckden

If you’re planning to visit a tourist attraction in Cambridgeshire, or heading to the Port of Felixstowe for adventures further afield, The Lion Hotel could be your perfect stopover. Located in the sleepy village of Buckden, just off the A1, this coaching inn offers signature rooms that promise a luxurious and relaxing stay. But not everything at The Lion Hotel is a roaring success.

The photographs on booking.com looked exceptional. A spacious room with a floor to ceiling bay window, exquisite Italian furniture, faux-fur draped over a grand king size bed, a contemporary en-suite with a roll top tub and a waterfall LED shower. All for a very reasonable price. I reserved a signature room for one night and looked forward to spending a fabulous evening as part of a two-day trip to Cambridge. But when I arrived at The Lion Hotel after a fantastic afternoon sightseeing on the River Cam, I felt a slight twinge of disappointment.

First impressions count

The Lion is a coaching inn that dates back to1492. I’m not sure if that was the last time someone cleaned the windows or freshened up the paintwork, but it could well have been. Inside, The Lion has plenty of original features and character to admire, from wooden beams to open fireplaces and panelled walls. But with low ceilings, an open plan layout, and far too much dark wooden furniture, the overall impression was dark and dingy. It didn’t help that I was the only guest. In the whole hotel.

“…it was like starring in an episode of Mr Benn, with a magic door at the back of the changing room, but no shopkeeper to help me choose a fabulous outfit.“

After checking in at the appointed time, I was directed up a rather grim and tatty staircase that led to my signature room on the first floor. When I turned the key in the lock it was like opening the door to a different world. As luxurious and impressive as the pictures that had tempted me to part with my hard-earned cash. I can’t vouch for the other rooms at The Lion, but I imagine guests would have a similar experience. The disappointment of grubby corridors and staircases, followed by the delight of a well-appointed bedroom with smart furniture and accessories and quality bedlinen. It reminded me of the weekend I spent in Holmfirth at The Old Bridge Inn and Coffee House, with the 1970’s magnolia and chocolate colour scheme. But The Lion didn’t have the saving grace of a super-stylish bar area.

The grass was greener at The George

Determined not to be the only guest in the dining room, I reclined on my sumptuous faux-fur adorned king size, scrolled through my smart phone and checked out the menu of the classy-looking pub I could see through the impressive bay window. Traditional pub grub. So, I opted to dine at Bobbie’s Bar in The George Hotel opposite. It was a great choice. Particularly as it turned out The Vine was hosting some kind of drag queen entertainment event. A chose a fabulous table for two in the garden at The George, bathed in early evening sunshine and heady with the delicious fragrance of flowering jasmine. It was the perfect spot for a little people watching while I enjoyed a fantastic Chicken Cesar salad and an ice-cold lime and soda or two. I happily spent a good three hours there before letting myself back into the deserted Lion hotel and retiring for the night.

Breakfast for one – and I mean one

Having pre-ordered and paid for breakfast at check-in to fuel a day exploring Cambridge, I went down to the dining room at 8.00am. With just the thirty or so free chairs at tables of various sizes, I was truly spoilt for choice. I finally decided on a small table in the Ivy Room, which is described on the hotel website as a stunning and romantic addition to the restaurant. Maybe in the evening, illuminated by soft lights and the twinkling fairy lights hidden in the decorative fake foliage covering the ceiling.

But in the dusty light of day with a half-eaten packet of Salt and Vinegar crisps on the next table, it didn’t quite create that kind of ambience. However, I was really looking forward to a fabulous breakfast date with myself and the full English did hit the spot. The sausage, egg and bacon were flavoursome, but there were far too many beans for my liking and the coffee was so weak, it was officially a fortnight.

As I ate a slice of white toast topped with raspberry jam from a mini plastic tub, I imagined guests at The George across the road, enjoying breakfast in the dappled morning sunlight in the Orangery. Perhaps a delicious plate of Organic Smoked Salmon with scrambled eggs on granary toast. Or maybe the Brioche French Toast, Buttermilk Pancakes, or Belgian Waffles. Soft music, the light chatter of guests and the reassuring tinkle of teaspoons on bone china saucers. The silence in The Lion was deafening, so I drained my coffee cup and went to pack my bags.

Buckden Towers

Before checking out, I took a short stroll along Great North Road to Buckden Towers. This historical palace is associated with a host of famous residents and visitors through the ages from Henry III and Edward I to Margaret Beaufort, Catherine of Aragon, and Samuel Pepys.

I didn’t take the guided tour, but walked through the Gatehouse into the inner courtyard, which afforded lovely views of The Great Hall, The King’s Lodge, and St Mary’s Church beyond. Given the time, I would also have liked to explore Buckden Marina, which is only about thirty or forty minutes walk away. However, Cambridge called, so I returned to The Lion for my luggage, left my room key on the empty reception desk, and showed myself out.

The verdict

I have to say, this was one of the strangest hotel experiences I have ever had. As a seasoned solo traveller, pretty much nothing phases me. But there’s dining alone, and there’s dining absolutely alone. There’s checking into an unmanned hotel like the Jet Black Jewel, and there’s staying in a substantially-sized hotel with no-one on reception, no-one behind the bar, and not one single other guest. For someone travelling alone for the first time, a stay at The Lion could well be the last time they ever go solo, and that would be a real shame.

I have to say, my room was incredible. I only gave it a personal 9 out of 10 because the wobbly shelf stuck to the wall to accommodate the kettle and refreshments looked like an accident waiting to happen. The deep, freestanding roll top bath was most welcome after a day’s sightseeing. The décor was decadent and dramatic. The huge bed was fabulously comfy and I had a dreamy night’s sleep. However, I can’t help thinking it was like starring in a personal episode of Mr Benn, with a magic door at the back of the changing room, but no shopkeeper to help me choose a fabulous outfit.

Let’s go
The Lion Hotel
High Street
Buckden
St Neots
PE19 5XA
01480 810 3131

www.thelionbuckden.com

Go-Solo Star Rating
Signature Room * * * * Hotel **

* The George Hotel is an independent, 10-bedoom room hotel with a range of accommodation including standard doubles and suites. The tariffs are up to twice the price of The Lion.